1 Apr 09 8 Hours Total: 2975
We decided to redo all of the fuel tank calibrations. So, all fuel removed and replaced setting the probe cals as we went along then emptied and refilled to do the AF-3400 engine monitor calibration. Got it done but the fuel indications were cycling between full and the correct reading. So, we did it all again. No change. Called the fuel probe maker - phone has been disconnected. Great. Called Advanced Flight Systems and they, as usual, were superb. They were very helpful and found the correct phone number for me for GRT - who now makes the fuel probes. AFS said the engine monitor only needs to see a set point at empty. But, the fuel probe has five set points and, it appears, one cannot exit the calibration sequence once it has begun. So, I can't set only an empty setting. Awaiting a callback from GRT.
We tried the SL-30 radio again today and got garbled transmissions and garbled reception. But, at least we're getting something. There are so many variables we'll just have to eliminate them one at a time to find the problem. I'm going to try a different headset next.
5 Apr 09 10 Hours Total: 2985
The fuel probes will not calibrate. I'm using the Princeton Electronics capacitance probes and I bought the 5 set point model. I've been through the calibration of the probes 6 times and calibration of the AF-3400 display 6 times. Each time requires emptying the fuel tanks and refilling 2 gallons at a time and waiting for it to settle and taking calibrations. VERY time consuming. And very frustrating.
I bought the probes about 4 years ago and the AF3400 about 2 years ago. Since then, Princeton makes a one set point model for the AF3400. I can understand why - setting the old ones is awful.
It looks like we may have the right tank reading reasonably close to accurate. But the left tank is out to lunch. It returns wild readings to the AF3400 that settle for a minute and then zoom to an unusually high reading and then back down again. I really hate the idea of removing the probes with the wings installed. But, we may have to.
The radio is still transmitting garbled and belated. I'm thinking the problem is the XCom intercom. It has a large delay from PTT activation to radio transmission.
6 Apr 09 8 Hours Total: 2993
I calibrated the probe readings from the left tank one last time and I'm calling it good for now. The cockpit readings are reasonably close so I'll go with them for now.
Hurray - the spark plug wire ends from E Mag Air arrived so we spent the afternoon installing them. We went slowly and carefully so as to not screw up any of the plug wires. All turned out fine.
Tomorrow we'll go through a prep list for running the engine and maybe run it tomorrow. If we can't get it ready we'll run it the next day.
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These shots show the routing of spark plug wires. We had to do some bobbing and weaving to get them to not interfere with other things such as the fuel injector lines. | |
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7 Apr 09 5 Hours Total: 2998
| We ran the engine today for the first time. We had a few last minute things to finish but it was ready to run by late afternoon so we turned on the cameras, got out the fire bottle, and cranked her up. First we turned over the engine several times without the lower plugs in in order to circulate oil to the cooler, filter and prop and to check the oil pressure. After several attempts, we got oil flowing throughout the system. We reinserted the plugs and started it up. It sputtered to life of the the third attempt with some backfiring. It ran fairly smoothly for 20 seconds and then began backfiring again. We shut it down rather than risk damaging anything. It must be a timing issue. We'll mull it over tonight and retime the P Mags tomorrow and try it again. |  |
Video of Engine Run - See second engine run below - it's better quality.
8 Apr 09 2 Hours Total: 3000
A great engine run today. Turns out I didn't use enough fuel to start yesterday and the backfiring was due to a lean mixture - or so I've surmised. Today I fed it plenty of fuel and it ran very nice. We had no RPM indication and the Oil Low Level light indication was on (I knew it was full), but the engine ran nice. Tried cycling the prop but no luck. Maybe I need warmer oil or higher RPM. I'll check with MT.
We called EMagAir and Advanced Flight to resolve the RPM issue. The P Mag signal to the AF3400 is 5 volt instead of 12 volt so it was pinned in the wrong place on the 25 DB sub going into the AF3400. Also, the AF3400 needed an adjustment to the signal value in the software. That solved the RPM issue. The Oil Low Level indication was due to a software change in the AF3400. The float switch is normally closed (NC) and we had it programmed that way in the AF3400, but that is not correct for it. The signal comes into Input #1 on the AF3400 and I changed it to normally open and the indication works fine. We tried the alternate air with no change in anything, so maybe there is very little power loss when using it.
Here's a video of the engine run - it's better than yesterday's.
12 Apr 09 8 Hours Total: 3008
The flaps and one aileron went on for the last time before flying. It took all day to install the flaps and one aileron. The right aileron needs a bit of adjustment to get an ideal 1/4" gap between the flap and aileron, but we'll tackle that tomorrow. Soon we'll trim the wingtips and install them. We also must install the trailing edge rib in the wingtip.
We also are going to get the Skybolt cowling fasteners installed soon. Lots to do and I'm running out of time before Nelson begins his trek across the USA - possibly never to return again.
I can't explain how much he has helped me and how nice it has been to have him here. I have really enjoyed spending time with him.
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| On the leading edges of the flaps where the flap meets the wing skin, the fit is very tight and the two rubbing will cut groves in the flap skin. So, use of UHMW tape on the flap is necessary. | For installing the flap hinge pin I drilled a #8 screw-sized hold through the aileron hinge bracket and the hinge pin can be fed right into the hinge. But, to ensure the hinge pin cannot back out and cause the aileron to bind, I filled the hole with a #8 SS screw with stop nut. | The outboard side showing the filler screw. |
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| No shot of the ailerons on, but the flaps are installed. Rather than use the Van's aluminum tube flap rods, we made some out of steel. Others have reported the aluminum tube flap rods have bent under load. The steel ones won't bend and they seem to fit much better than the aluminum ones we made. | Reconnected the AOA sensor tubes after replacing them due to pinching them several years ago. The tubes were fed through the conduit. | The blue tube needs to be higher than the sensor port to which it is connected. That is difficult to do since the port is only 1/4" from the upper skin. |
13 Apr 09 8 Hours Total: 3016
The other aileron went on today, but not without much aggravation. It took all day to install it. As we rechecked the right aileron we discovered several restrictions to movement. First, the screw used to close the hole used to insert/remove the flap hinge was restricting movement of the aileron hinge. Additionally, the hinge pin for the flaps, which we intentionally left long, interfered with the aileron hinge. So, we had to partially pull the flap hinge pin on both sides and shorten them. The screw on the left side wasn't interfering because we didn't have to shift it as much as the right side to get the desired 1/4" gap between the flaps and ailerons. So I replaced the right side screw with a flat head screw and countersunk it to provide clearance. The 1/4" flight control gap was obtained by adding and removing washers so as to get the ailerons in the correct position.
Then we had to get out the aileron-setting bracket we made about 4 years ago and attach it to the right aileron turnbuckle to set the centered position for the ailerons and stick. Then we could adjust the rod end bearings in the aileron push-pull tube to match the aileron trailing edges with the flap edge. As we attached the aileron push tubes, we added on the aileron stop that Nelson made. It a Delrin that fits on the attachment bolt and hits the aileron hinge thus limiting upward travel on each side to 32 degrees.
After getting it all together, we found the right aileron push-pull tube was rubbing the edge of the hole it passes through. So, we had to disconnect the tube, file the opening larger and reinstall the tube. It it ain't one thing - it's another.
All the flight controls are installed and working correctly.
Also did a little work on sanding the plenum. I'm going to sand it smooth and paint it inside and out with high temp paint.
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| This shot clearly shows the screw and hinge pin that interfered with the aileron movement. It's also easy to see the washers used to shift the aileron so as to get proper flight control gaps. | Last week Nelson did a great job on the baggage door gas spring. I took the spring off my tool chest and it works great on the baggage door. The nice thing is that it will be difficult to accidentally take off with the baggage door unlocked because if it is unlocked, the spring pushes it up into your field of vision. | After 2 months of searching, I finally found the billet aluminum canopy handle made by rivethead.com. Tomorrow we'll attach it and then move on the fitting the wingtips. |
14 Apr 09 7 Hours Total: 3023
Nice progress today. We got both wingtips ready to attach and the left one fully wired. The left tip lights all worked fine. We turned on the landing light, recognition light, position light and strobes and let them burn for about 10 minutes to see how hot they got in the wingtip. Surprisingly, they were not hot at all. Very little heat was generated by the lights. The hottest one was the landing light and it was only warm. With all the left tip lights on draw was 4 amps.
The HIDs are very bright and the recognition/taxi lights are going to be quite adequate. As one might expect, the strobes are blinding - especially since they reflect off the polished cover plates.
The flash rate of Eric Jones' wig wag is a bit too fast for my liking. It flashes at an annoying rate - but, perhaps that's the idea.
Overall, I'm very pleased with the wingtips. Now I have to polish the plexi lenses and get them installed.
We'll finish the right wingtip tomorrow and get the canopy handle installed and perhaps get started on the skybolt fasteners.
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| The trailing edge of the wingtips has a sheet aluminum triangle that is riveted in to hold its shape and close it off. The tip has to be trimmed to provide a 1/4" gap with the aileron. | The recognition light wiring was butt spliced because, as shown, the wingtip will be disconnected and laid on top of the wing which permits access to the landing and recog lights. But the position light and strobe light require disconnects because they are attached from outside the tip. | The ballast for the HID landing light is mounted on the wing rib. All of the lighting grounds are connected to the wing rib. |
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If access inside the wingtip is required, the screws are removed and the tip is laid on top of the wing. All lights are accessible without removing the tip. There are no filaments in any of the lights, so replacing the lamps will be rare. |
Here is the tip installed with all lights installed, but the lens not installed. The polished covers will increase the light signature - especially the strobe. |
All the lights ran surprisingly cool and with low power draw. I was concerned about the amount of heat that would be generated in the tip, but my concern was unfounded. Next we'll have to get them all properly aimed. |
14 Apr 09 7 Hours Total: 3030
The wingtip wiring is complete, but we still need to adjust the landing and taxi lights - they are aimed too high.
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The Precise Flight HIDs are bright. The Whelen LED lights are just barely suitable as taxi lights - for me they will be taxi and flashing recognition lights. Below - the lights just before dark, after dark, and the pattern on the ugly hangar across the taxiway. |
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16 Apr 09 6 Hours Total: 3036
We got the right wingtip wiring complete and connected the Archer antenna in the wingtip. We still need to make a bracket inside the wingtip to support the LED taxi lights.
17 Apr 09 8 Hours Total: 3044
We got the Skybolt cowling fasteners almost completely done. The task is repetitive and time consuming, but at the end of the day we were happy with it. If you use the Skybolt fasteners, do yourself a favor and make two extra copies of the steel templates provided. Buy some plain or galvanized sheet steel (1.5" x 24" or 36") from hardware store and duplicated the templates. As you drill through them, especially with the Unibits, the templates will get chewed up and augered out.
We adjusted the landing lights again - they are almost correct. The LED taxi lights are another story.
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| We installed the bottom left Skybolts first so that any early errors would be less visible. | Each fastener opening must have a little "keyhole" along the edge of the hole for insertion/removal of the locking pin. Be careful where you put the keyholes. | Here all of the fasteners are clecoed on and ready for riveting. |
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There were a couple of spots that required
special attention. The fasteners near engine mount bolts were tight
to work on. Because I spaced the two far aft fasteners too close
vertically, one had to be turned to make them fit. So, externally,
one screw will be set at a 45 degree angle.
Left shows drilling the grommet openings with a #3 Unibit. Right is another view. |
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We found it easiest to do the same task
repeatedly and then the next one. We clecoed on all the fasteners
and then squeezed them all.
Right is the landing lights illumination after adjustment. I'll make one more adjustment and call it good. Next I have to make brackets for the taxi lights. They are going to be more difficult. |
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20 April 09 8 Hours Total: 3052
Finished installing the Skybolt fasteners and fitted the cowlings to the airplane. They fit as expected. We changed the cabin heat control cable because the original one did not lock and would creep open. The new one is a locking T handle.
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If you are installing the Skybolt fasteners, do yourself a huge favor and make extra steel templates from the single template that comes in the package. It gets chewed up by the drill bits and Unibits, so having extras is nice. Just buy some 1' wide steel bar from the local hardware. To right is the cowling grommet retaining clip installation tool that Nelson made for us to use. He ground down a bolt to make the tapered tool and drilled a 1/2" hole in a solid aluminum rod. Slide the retaining clip well down the taper (farther than in this photo) and finish it off with the round tool. Works great. |
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Both sides of the finished cowlings. Adjusting the depth of each fastener was a bit tedious, but they all turned out nice. The cowlings are rock solid. |
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21 Apr 09 8 Hours Total: 3060
Nelson installed the front baggage floor, the aft baggage floor, connected the RCP stick DB25 connector, secured the DB25s with long screws, torqued the canopy roller bolts, and fitted the RCP throttle while I spent the entire day making new brackets for the LED taxi lights.
The light adjustments are getting very close - but I need a little more fine tuning.
I got an email from Charlie Babb at Precise Flight and they are now making a ballast that will boost the light output of the HIDs to 50W. I'll likely do that upgrade until they come out with the 70W version.
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Left is the installed main baggage
floor. I'll wait to install the battery cover.
To right shows the LEDs used for baggage illumination. They're angled so that they also light up the battery compartment in case there is late night, remote airport work to be done. The LEDs are wired hot to the battery via a 1A fuse so they can be used without turning on aircraft power. |
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22 Apr 09 8 Hours Total: 3068
Multiple things done today. Got a bracket made for the left cooling intake ramp. It was not yet air tight so we're making a bracket to close off the "holes" in the plenum. That is slow tedious work.
Finished the LED taxi light brackets and adjusted the lights (they need another adjustment). Installed all of the cockpit instruments and displays. Everything lit up and worked properly.
A neighbor has a set of scales so as soon as the seats arrive we should be able to do the weight and balance and then it's a matter of waiting for an inspection and the FAA paperwork.
| Everything on the panel fired up and worked
as advertised. The EFIS One booted up in about 25 seconds and had a
GPS lock 15 seconds later. The EFIS Lite is much slower, but only
took about a minute.
I'll get the local A&P to do a transponder check and pitot-static check. |
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25 Apr 09
I laid out the final parts left to install on the airplane. It's looking more complete now.
