I'm leaning toward using the IO-390 and having it built up by Barrett Performance Engines in Tulsa.  Despite Monty's remarks on the internet about idiots building airplanes, I may still use them for my engine.  The IO-390 produces 210 HP, but I'm hoping someone produces a piston the will increase the compression from 8.7:1 to 9.2 or 9.5:1 and raise the power a little.

On 15 Jun 06, I met Nelson in OKC and we drove to Tulsa to watch the engine run at Barrett Precision Engines, but they'd had trouble with an IO-550 on the dyno so my engine was going to be delayed.  I didn't have time to wait so I'll just have to see the dyno printout after Barrett's 1.5 hour engine run.

Here's the engine information:

IO-390-X Angle Head with roller lifters, AFP Fuel Injection, Two P-Mags, Skytec Starter, ADC  Oil Filtration, Chrome covers and pipes, Exhaust and Intake ports 3 angle cut to improve flow, Crankshaft balanced, Case milled approx .015 to increase compression and to essentially blueprint the engine.  Cost - $30K.

Sometimes I like working by myself, but today I sure could have used some help.  One guy can hang the engine, but two or three would have made it a lot easier.  I had to first pull the nose wheel and pack the strut with grease.  I talked to Van's and they said the grease fitting can be used, but they've discovered that hand packing the nose strut every 50 hours is better than using a grease gun on the grease nipple because it tends to get too much and make a mess of the nose wheel.  I had initially put it together with Lubriplate intending to later fill it up with a grease gun.  But, I took it off and packed it with grease and torqued the retainer nut on the bottom of the strut.  Had to run to the local boating store to buy a fish weighing scale to test the pull on the nose wheel. per the plans.  I misread the plans the first time (thought it called for a 14 pound pull) and bought too small  scale so had to go back and buy the 25# scale.  The plans call for a 22# side pull on the nosegear.  Then had to drill the strut for the cotter pin and install that.

Then I got started on the engine.  The dynofocal mount is clumsy in that all four engine mounting bolts have to be simultaneously inserted.  The reason is because they all point toward the center of the engine and the mounting rubbers (donuts) must be compressed as the bolts are installed.  Van's recommends installing the upper bolts and then lifting the engine to rotate it forward and into the lower attach points.  Easier said than done.  I'm wondering it it might be easier to install the lower bolts and then lifting the engine to install the upper ones.  The reason is because (at least with my engine) the CG of the engine is aft of the center of lift so it doesn't pivot the right way when using Van's method.  I may get to try that out as I didn't get all the bolts installed before I had to quit.  So, more to follow.

The other day, I used the Van's recommended technique of inserting the upper bolts, partially tightening them, and then lifting the engine and airframe in order to force the lower bolt holes into position.  So, today I was intending to finish the job by inserting the lower bolts and torqueing everything.  It was quickly obvious that Van's technique wasn't going to work.  So, I hung the engine again under the lift and removed all bolts.  I decided that with the CG and lift point on my engine I could probably more easily insert the lower bolts and then the uppers.  That would help solve one frustration - when inserting the lower bolts last, getting the large washer to line up with the engine bolt hole and the Lord mount hole was difficult.  I was using masking tape to hold the washer in place.  By inserting the lowers first, keeping the washer in place was much easier.  And the same washer on the upper bolts fits under the bolt head so it is easy to install along with the bolt.

For me, it worked much better to insert the lower bolts and snug down the nuts and then the uppers.  The problem is that the upper rubber mounts must be partially compressed in order for the bolts to slide in.  The reason for that is because all four bolts point toward the center of the engine.  In order to partially compress the upper rubbers, I used my old reliable hold down straps to pull the engine back into the engine mount.  It turned out to be just enough and, after getting alignment using the 7/16" pins, the bolts fit in reasonably easily.  I torqued the bolts to the lower end of the AC.43-13 recommended range of 235-255 inch pounds.  That would leave me a bit of room to adjust the castellated nut to align with the cotter pin hole.  All the nuts but one lined up fairly close while very close to the torque range.  One had to be over torqued a little to get alignment.  After discussion with Van's, I decided that was better than under torqueing.  Finally the cotter pins had to be installed and that took a full hour.  The nuts are difficult to reach and the bolts have to be rotated to bend over the pins.  I broke one off too short so I have to order another one and replace it.

As soon as I get a replacement cotter pin, the engine mounting procedure will be complete, hopefully not to be done again for 2000+ flying hours.